The Fjord Route: The Most Beautiful Cycling and Hiking Path in Fjordlandet
Straight ahead of your handlebars, large and small sailboats line up, with the sound of lines clinking against masts setting a maritime tone. The water and fjord play a central role on this journey, starting at Roskilde Harbor. However, it is the bicycle, not the boats, that will be your mode of transport, though a small part of the route involves a short trip by water. We’ll return to that later.
The route ahead follows the Fjord Route, R40, which, according to the travel portal Momondo, traverses some of Zealand’s most scenic areas around Isefjord, Lammefjord, Holbæk Fjord, and Roskilde Fjord.
The full length of the Fjord Route is 275 kilometers, comprising both old roadways and newly constructed paths that are manageable for cyclists of all levels and those who choose to walk. We start pedaling, and soon, the town and harbor become a world behind us.
Vikings on the Horizon
The gravel path follows the water’s edge, carrying the fresh scent of saltwater. On this initial stretch, don’t be surprised if you catch the silhouette of a Viking ship out of the corner of your eye, as visitors to the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde at the bottom of the fjord can try their hand at rowing in small Viking ships under the guidance of experienced sailors from the museum. Indeed, you may catch sight of a Viking ship silhouette on this part of the route.
It’s well-known that authentic, large Viking ships once sailed in this area. In 1962, the remains of five Viking ships were retrieved from the silt at the bottom of Roskilde Fjord. These ships are now displayed inside the museum. As you cycle through the green surroundings, it’s easy to ponder what this area looked like during the Viking Age. While the journey ahead won’t take you back to Viking times, it will lead you along a segment of the Fjord Route that’s perfect for a weekend trip. You’ll travel along the coast, through farmland, forest, and fields to Holbæk, across Orø, and around Hornsherred.
After a while, the path turns into Boserup Forest and continues among the forest’s many different species of deciduous trees. Occasionally, there are glimpses of the water through the trunks.
The forest is especially popular with cyclists and hikers in the spring when the forest floor is covered with flowers like corydalis and yellow, blue, and white anemones. In some places, there are obstacle courses made from natural materials where you can train your balance and coordination. Another spot features a fire pit and a secluded beach in a small bay. On the other side of the forest, the route continues into hilly farmland.
If you’re ready for the first stop of the trip, the organic farm brewery Herslev Bryghus is a great choice – even if you don’t need a rest. The brewery is known for its craft beers, made in collaboration with local producers. They also receive vegetables, fruits, and ham from free-range pigs from local suppliers for their lunch tapas, which is worth a stop in itself.
A System of Fjords
After a pit stop at Herslev, it’s time to get the legs moving and head down past Lejre Bay and along the country road towards the southern part of Isefjord. The Fjord Path doesn’t just take you around a single fjord but around a system of fjords that weave around islands and land, creating a rich and varied landscape. Our journey now continues towards Hornsherred.
Gastronomy and Outdoor Life
Foodies embarking on Fjordstien might want to consider adding a few extra kilometers to their journey, as there are many culinary temptations hidden throughout the area.
Cycling to the Baroque Era
From the forest, the journey heads south through unique landscapes shaped by glaciers during the Ice Age and along the narrowest passages of Roskilde Fjord. It was here, off Tørslev, that in the late 10th century, Vikings sank five ships to narrow the entrance to Roskilde, which was an important and powerful trading city. The next stop on our route offers another dive into history, albeit a few centuries later.
We park our bikes at Selsø Slot, which in reality is not a castle but a testament to the historic manors of Fjordlandet. Here, you can experience original interiors from the 1730s to the 1800s to an extent unmatched elsewhere in the country.
The main building from the 1500s was uninhabited for a long period from the 1800s to the 1900s, which spared it from the modernizations that affected others. Thus, today you can see well-preserved wallpapers, wall paintings, mirrors from the Baroque era, and rooms in Empire style. The castle also has other stories to offer, such as tales of the presence of ‘the White Lady’. The nature around Selsø Slot is worth lingering over, with a bird reserve at Selsø Sø and particularly beautiful light along the coast.
You can continue on two wheels for another hour and a half through villages like the idyllic Sæby and landscapes where you can feel uplifted by the solitude of nature. Perhaps there will be an opportunity for a dip in a cove before rolling across the finish line after a wonderful day on Fjordstien.
